Domaine Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon 2015 is a traditional Beaujolais made by Jean-Paul Thévenet, who perhaps best embodies the “old school” qualities out of the Gang of Four of Beaujolais (the others being Guy Breton, Jean Foillard and Marcel Lapierre). Thevenet works a plot of extremely old vines in the Morgon appellation. The average age of the vines is 70 years and they are cultivated organically and yield very little fruit. The Gamay grapes are fermented with natural yeasts and, often without the addition of any sulphur dioxide. After fermentation Thévenet ages the wine for six to eight months in used oak barrels that he gets from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (!). The wines are then bottled without filtration.
The Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon 15′ is a testament to how good a Beaujolais wine can be. Take the best Gamay grapes and the best producer. Then let him do his biodynamic wizardry, followed by winemaking mastery and you get a wine that is ripe with red berry fruit with spicy notes and great minerality. Wines are bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no additions of SO2. It will be good to drink with up to five years of ageing. A true Beaujolais goes with charcuterie, some cornichons on a plate, some afternoon sunshine and some friends, and life is good. Very good indeed.